Northwest Passage Landing Sites: Key factors

  • By zodiac, on foot or from the bows of the ship, spotting Arctic wildlife is a core focus at all times of day
  • Go ashore to explore places of historic interest, including former trading outposts, deserted Royal Canadian Mounted Police stations, or Franklin expedition sites
  • Explore the tundra on foot with field classes in local geology and flora, led by Arctic experts 
  • Experience fascinating community visits – a warm welcome is always guaranteed. This is your opportunity to talk directly to the people who live here and are enthusiastic to share their stories
  • Between fascinating lectures, spotting wildlife and meeting the people who call this region home, you'll really feel what it might be like to live at the edge of the world.

Swoop says

Swoop Says background image

Whatever images spring to mind when you think of the Northwest Passage, little can prepare you for the majesty of the icescapes, the stories of intrepid explorers, or the enthralling wildlife.

Alex Mudd Head of Swoop Arctic

Historic places of the Northwest Passage

Franklin sites

The history of Franklin’s fateful expedition is a massive draw for many travellers to the Northwest Passage. 

Standing sentinel on a windswept beach of Beechey Island are the three graves of John Torrington, John Harnell and William Braine, the earliest casualties in what became the infamous, tragic opera.

Their exhumation played a pivotal role in the unmasking of lead poisoning as a key contributor to the demise of Franklin's party. Standing next to the lonely graves of these lost Englishman, more famous in death than when alive, is certainly sobering.

All Northwest Passage cruises make a stop at this site.

Northwest Passage Landing Sites

Graves of Franklin's men on Beechey Island

In 1859 the first evidence of what had happened to the Franklin expedition was found in a cairn at Victory Point on King William Island. This broke the news that Sir John himself had died and that the ships were abandoned.

In 2016 HMS Erebus was found in Queen Maud Gulf and HMS Terror in 2018 close to King William Island, with the Academic Vavilov involved in the search.

For anyone with an interest in the Franklin story these are prime sites. Some voyages will land at Victory Point but very few are granted permission to visit the wreck sites.

Northwest Passage Landing Sites

The Franklin expedition at Victory Point

Historical sites

Besides from the Franklin story, the Northwest Passage is a treasure trove of history dating back millennia and includes the Dorset and Thule cultures that transited through this region following the fauna at the ice edge.

The remains of sod houses at sites such as Crocker Bay and the whale bone dwellings of Cornwallis Island tell a story of life lived at the extremes.

It's also an oral culture that is being lost to history as once transient communities move into stationary settlements and face new challenges brought with the change.

Crocker-Bay

Croker Bay

There is also modern Canadian history in the region; you’ll see evidence of trade with the Hudson Bay Company who established a trading post at Fort Ross, close to the eastern entrance to the Bellot Strait.

Today the buildings stand abandoned, untouched from the moment the last inhabitant left, with the coffee pot on the stove as if ready to be poured.

The Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) patrolled the region for years and at Dundas Harbour you will see the deserted dwellings they left behind along with a small cemetery, the resetting place of two of the last men to be posted to these remotest of locations.

Northwest Passage Landing Sites

Trading post, Northwest Passage

Community visits

Scattered through this wild and remote region there are a handful of communities that you may visit along the way. Some, like Pond Inlet, are fairly used to visitors through the summer months and others, such as Kugaaruk, very rarely see a ship at all.

These visits are greatly welcomed by the communities who will often put together a show of traditional dance and music, perhaps with traditional Arctic games as well.

Local artists will also take an opportunity to show and sell their work, it’s one of the few times when you can pick up a memento of your journey.

Northwest Passage Landing Sites

Inuit resident of the Northwest Passage

Many of these settlements carry more significance for some travellers. At Gjoa Haven in Prince William Island, a 1,200 strong community, you can visit the monument of Roald Amunsden.

This is where the great man over-wintered for two years from 1903 whilst completing the first successful transit of the passage.

It’s really worth stressing how much the visits mean to these remote populations, not just economically but also for contact with the outside world. Take time to talk to the inhabitants and you'll soon discover how friendly they are.

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself having tea in someone's home! These towns may be small but they are home to fascinating people who have very different stories to tell.

Gjoa-Haven-crop

A resident of Gjoa Haven

Wildlife

Wildlife flows through the region with the ice, following its edge as it advances and retreats with the seasons. Lancaster Soundis often described as a wildlife ‘superhighway’.

It's home to 75% of the world’s narwhal population and 20% of Canada’s beluga population, as well as walrus and bowheads. Additionally, 35% of Canadian seabirds breed here.

Of course, all these creatures are bait for the polar bear so keep your eyes peeled. Progress has been made to protect the wildlife in recent years, and the 109,000-kilometre-square Tallurutiup Imanga Marin Conservation area has recently been established.

Northwest Passage Landing Sites

Birders should look out for excursions to sites like Prince Leopold Island, home to hundreds of thousands of thick-billed murres. With steep cliffs often shrouded in mist and surrounded by ice this can be a hugely atmospheric site experienced by zodiac.

Polar bears are always nearby but they frequent some sites more than others. The Bellot Strait is popular: this narrow channel divides Somerset Island from the northernmost point of continental North America, and is known for strong tides which can prove challenging even today.

These currents throw up plankton attracting fish, and as a result it’s a good place for wildlife: seals, polar bears, arctic fox and musk ox.

Bird cliffs of Leopold Island, Northwest Passage, Arctic

The bird cliffs of Leopold Island

Swoop Says background image

Swoop says

Exploring the vast range of sites in the Northwest Passage not only puts into perspective the achievements of adventurers and explorers who have gone before, but really helps to paint a picture of what it might be like to live at the edge of the world.

Northwest Passage Landing Sites: FAQs

  • Are there optional activities like kayaking, hiking, photography workshops and the Polar plunge?

    Yes, all of these optional activities are offered. If you are interested in specific ones, check carefully as each ship offers a slightly different activity programme.

    Hiking, the Polar Plunge and photography workshops are all complimentary. Kayaking quite often carries an extra cost, which we can help advise you on.

    Please note that paddle boarding, camping and scuba diving are not available on any ship.

  • Are there historians, naturalists or Indigenous cultural experts on board?

    Yes, there are. And these experts - each a specialist in their own particular field - are the backbone of the ship’s team, as they are your accompanying guides, interpreters and presenters.

    While each expedition team is different and the individuals rotate around, you can definitely expect there to be a polar historian, glaciologist, local community guide, ornithologist and cetacean specialist on your voyage.

    Expedition teams are each led by an Expedition Leader and they are typically between 13 and 30 guides, depending on the size of the ship and number of guests.

  • Are landing sites guaranteed?

    Although every effort will be made to follow the original itinerary, the short answer is 'no they're not'. While every trip will depart with a planned itinerary there are many factors that can impact the decision or ability to land at specific sites.

    In the Northwest Passage ice is often the biggest factor and can, at times, cause an entire trip to be re-routed. Polar bears are another threat to landings – sighting one of these predators in the vicinity of a landing site will mean that no one is going ashore.

    The decision to land or not is in the hands of the captain and the expedition leader, the former being in responsible for the ship and the latter for your safety. Wherever possible, if a landing site is missed, it will be replaced by an equivalent.

  • Is it possible to make a full transit of the Northwest Passage?

    With the sadly increasing summer temperatures in the Arctic and resultant melting of the ice, successfully transiting the Northwest Passage is now all but guaranteed, in a way that it wasn’t 20 years ago.

  • Should I choose a smaller or larger expedition ship?

    This is a key question, and in the Northwest Passage there are several ways to think about it:

    Firstly, you should consider what's most important to you, as there are trade-offs. A smaller ship typically lends itself to a more intimate experience, where you’ll get to know a greater proportion of your fellow passengers, and getting on and off the ship will be speedier.

    However, the anonymity of a larger ship, alongside normally more on-ship amenities and a wider choice of dining locations (particularly on a longer voyage) can be attractive. There’s no right or wrong answer, it's simply down to personal choice.

    The other way to look at it – given the relatively limited number of Northwest Passage itineraries and ships – is to focus on choosing the right trip first, as depending on which you choose, there may only be one or two ships from which to choose.

  • Will a smaller ship provide better wildlife viewing and landings?

    This is a tricky question to answer as there’s always a slice of luck involved when it comes to wildlife sightings. However, in our experience, smaller ships have a higher chance of better wildlife sightings because:

    • Relative to a larger ship it's quiet through the water and less likely to disturb the skittish Arctic wildlife.
    • The scale of larger ships can make wildlife sightings harder: you're higher up and therefore further from the wildlife (although elevation can also be an advantage, depending on how far away the wildlife is), and it takes longer to access the outer viewing decks.
    • Choosing a larger ship doesn’t necessarily come with correspondingly larger outer decks which are capable of accommodating everyone when wildlife is spotted; smaller ships typically give everyone ample space so there’s no jockeying for a good view when that polar bear finals shows.

    When it comes to landings, this is where having fewer guests on board carries a distinct advantage as it means:

    • Getting everyone off the ship at the beginning of a shore excursion takes much less time, and avoids precious time wasted (and frustrations) waiting to get ashore.
    • And less time spent ferrying everyone to and then back from a landing translates into having more time to spend on land, which in our book can mean a more satisfying overall experience by not feeling rushed and having the time you need.
    • Fewer people, combined with a high guide-to-guest ratio, also means that the group sizes once you get on land will be smaller, and you’ll have more opportunity for 1-2-1 time with the experts.

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