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Epic Adventures

Churchill – the polar bear capital of the world

The centre of a polar bear migration in October and November, the worlds’ best place to see northern lights from January to March and a gathering point for thousands of beluga whales in July and August, this Canadian outpost on the shore of Hudson Bay is a truly special place.

What makes Churchill so special?

It’s all down to location and a topographical quirk; a detailed map of the region will show that Churchill is located next to a nook in the coastline. With the anti-clockwise gyre of the northern polar winds the nook is the first part of Hudson Bay to freeze in late November and early December. The ice is an ideal haul out for seals and soon becomes a hunting ground for bears; that’s why they gather in numbers and relative peace.

This freeze has another effect in the depths of winter as it locks away the major source of humidity in the region creating clear skies. With that comes sightings of the aurora above the boreal forest. The location has another card to play here, it’s directly under the Van Allen belt giving, on average, 300 days a year when the aurora are overhead.

In the summer months when the ice has melted and the Churchill River flows freely beluga whales come to Hudson Bay in their tens of thousands to breed. 

When to visit

October and November

If, like most visitors, it is the bears that you are planning to see then this is the only time to be there. If you want the best then we can tell you that ten days either side of 1st November is the optimum window. At this point, there is a critical mass of bears and the temperatures have dropped sufficiently for them to be active (when it is warmer they can be a touch on the lethargic side).

January to March

This is the best time and possibly the best place in the world to see the Northern Lights. As the aurora range from around 60 to 400 miles above ground level clouds are the biggest enemy of any spotter. With Hudson Bay frozen and such low humidity in mid winter clouds are far less likely and the location of Churchill under the aurora belt means that sightings are almost assured. Variable scenery and infrastructure designed for you to see them in warmth and comfort add to the experience.

July and August

One of the few periods when you don’t need serious winter clothing and the ice has melted allowing up to 55,000 beluga whales to gather in the relative safety of the ice free bay. They are there to breed and calf in shallow waters and away from bears and orca. Around 3,000 congregate near Churchill allowing you to get close up to these vocal canaries of the ocean.

Around 3,000 belugas congregate in the waters near Churchill, allowing you to get close up to these vocal canaries of the ocean.

With such short windows for optimal viewing of all of these spectacles, dates can book up well in advance especially for the peak windows. 

A day bear watching from Churchill

The day starts with a reminder of youth as a school bus collects you from your lodgings early in the morning. The polar rover station is a short drive from the town and here you will board your home for the day. With a driver and a experienced naturalist guide, this specially adapted, go-anywhere vehicle will take you into the protected conservation zones which are closely controlled with limited access for licensed vehicles only. 

You’ll spend around 4 hours out on the tundra spotting the bears and learning from your expedition guide about the bear drama that is unfolding around you. Bears are generally solitary creatures so for so many to be so close to each other creates some unusual displays. It’s not all about the bears though so keep your eyes peeled for foxes, hares and birds as you explore.

What is a polar rover?

Polar bears are apex predators and are not to be trifled with which means that safety, yours and theirs, is paramount to any trip. To achieve this the best way to view the bears is from a polar rover.

This is, in effect, an adapted school bus with some pretty unique features. For a start, they have been raised up on huge, go-anywhere, tyres. This not only allows them to explore the tundra but also raises the passengers out of reach of passing bears who can stand at 2.7m (9ft) in height.

To the rear, you will find a viewing platform that allows you to have a clear view of the wildlife without looking through glass. Under your feet you will find a metal mesh floor so you can see bears walking beneath you too.

Other features include a forward sloping front screen which enables you to look down on anything directly in front of you. You are going to spend a fair amount of time on board so you’ll be pleased to know there is a bathroom!

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Paul Clammer

Guidebook Editor

Paul came to Swoop after spending nearly 20 years researching and writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet.